BILL SMITH’S VISIONARY DESIGNS

William F. “Bill” Smith came from humble beginnings in Madison, Indiana, and rose to become a successful designer of fine and costume jewelry in New York City.  His pieces adorned socialites, actresses and models; he also worked with fashion designers to create exclusive accessories for their clothing collections.

Known as Billy at school, Smith was one of the first Black graduates of Madison Consolidated High School in 1951. Completing his senior year there, he was a member of the track team, the yearbook staff, and the Industrial Arts Club, according to the school’s yearbook, the Mahisco. 

Smith studied art and dance at Indiana University; in 1952, he was one of four men elected to the IU cheer team.

Smith left IU after three semesters and made his way to New York City. He supported himself by working several jobs, including as an assistant to a jewelry designer. He honed his skills and around 1958, with the support of actor Raymond St. Jacques, formed his experimental design studio, “Smith-St. Jacques.” While designing as “Smith-St. Jacques,” he was commissioned to work with costume-pearl company Richelieu. He found favor with the company’s president and, in 1968, was named vice president — a first for a Black man, and unusual for someone his age. 

In 1969, Smith was commissioned to design each piece of jewelry worn by Katharine Hepburn and the production cast in the Broadway musical “Coco.” 

In 1970, after winning the Coty Award for Excellence in Jewelry Design, Smith left Richelieu and worked for Cartier as one of its few named designers; he also worked for Ben Kahn Furs, Mark Cross Leather, and Hattie Carnegie, and designed a line of men’s clothing for Enka.